I’m feeling -SOooo- much better, and, very appreciatively, truly getting back to a backlog of projects!
Building that 2nd Hall Tree—
I showed you some of the materials I pulled from trying to figure out a design.
And told you how I decided to cut off and re-use the top, small panel of the door.
I also told you how I took apart the mirror/frame to capture the decorative split pediment~and routered a dado to “receive” the new top.
Then I told you about cutting up some salvaged, turned, stair railing pickets to create “legs” for the storage box.
The following are pictures of the varying tasks—
The last image I shared with you -and- as I was painting—
I needed to deal with the hardware pre-cuts. I didn’t have any old door knobs (that I was willing to give up), so I bought a new “dummy” at a local box-store. But it looked -NeW. : \
“Aging” a door knob
I love those old white porcelain and enamel knobs—and they’re actually pretty easy to emulate! This is how I like to approach the task.
- I like to use Kilz to prime the whole knob. Then I will dry brush some paint over the escutcheon plate *much like would happen when you paint a door with the hardware on.
- Tape off the escutcheon plate and neck of the knob really well. Then paint the round knob/handle with white spray paint. The spray paint will give you that smooth no brush mark finish. Paint a couple coats, the paint sheen doesn’t matter.
- ThEN you’re going to DUNK the knob/handle into a can of Glossy LACQUER. You’ll have to hold it over the top of the can for a moment to let all the excess drip off, you may have to shake some off too. Basically–you don’t want a flood of the lacquer running down the tape or getting all over any other part of the door knob. *I’ve never tried this with shellac, but I know that marine varnish turns yellow’ish. Again, dunking=no brush marks.
- Set it upright, on a flat surface—the ideal is somewhere it can be undisturbed. (Give at least an hour to dry between dunks.)
- Repeat the dunking steps~on, as many times as you want for the desired “depth of character.” The one I just did (pictured below) was dunked 3 times. *I did a black knob once that I dunked 5 times–it had a glass-y look. **I’d like to paint something Mercury Glass-like and then dunk it a bunch of times–see how that turns out!
Okay—you may not want to do this next step. I admit, it’s always a gamble.
After you’ve let it have a day to fully dry—DROP IT ON THE GROUND! From about 3 or 4ft, preferably onto smooth concrete. Sometimes it dINGs the knob~ but SOMEtimes it CHIPs! (And looks like the real-deal that you find in the flea markets–that cost an arm and a leg, and always seem to be chipped!)
I just have to upholster the seat of the hall tree and attach my enameled knob—so I’ll show you my finished project tomorrow!
And the bed and dresser I’m busy painting too!
I’m sharing this project in these linky parties!