Once again, here’s my cabinet.
I’ve decided I AM going to put a light in it and use glass shelves! But, aesthetically–
“I don’t want to look at the edge of the glass shelves through the glass door.”
SO. . .here’s my plan!
I’m making shelf “frames” that the glass will drop into. Through the door, it will look like 3 wood shelves—but it’s not. Here’s how to do it.
(think “picture frame”)
- I grabbed an appropriate board from my stock– ¾” thick x 12″w x 48″ l
- I set up the router table with a ¾” round-over bit, and set the height to completely round over both sides of the board’s top edge–then lowered the bit to just soften the bottom edge on each side.
- Then I ripped each of the routered sides by 1″ on the table saw.
- Then I took the -now narrower- board back to the router table to repeat the process.
- And back to the table saw. . . .and back to the router, and back to the table saw.
This gave me 6 48″ routered lengths—more than needed, but it’s always better to have extra in case I wreck or miscalculate any part of construction.
Then I changed the router set up to a dado bit, and cut a ¼” deep rabbet for the glass to rest in,. And I miter cut the sections to create the “frame.” Again–the glass will drop into the frames, the frames will sit on the shelf clips.
I used the rounded over edge at the front of the shelves/what will be seen through the glass doors. I used that same edge upside down for the other 3 sides because it would be softer [visually] underneath the glass for the shelf below. –And you would not have seen the rounded edges against the sides and back of the cabinet anyway.
BUT– it was not a “natural fit” at the front corners, so I used the sander to round them over.
WoW! Hard to explain this concisely,
so I hope you get it–it’s really NOT difficult to do.
The shelf frames went to the glass store for their custom cut glass inserts –I get them back Wednesday, lunch’ish– can’t wait to show you!
2nd/the other thing I wanted to share–
my cheater guide for drilling perfect shelf holes!
1. I like to keep scraps of ¼” plywood, they make great jigs/templates for drilling shelf holes. You can use old wood rulers or yard sticks too!
Pre-drill pilot holes at the increments you want shelves to adjust to, AND for how close you want the clips to be from the back and front of the shelf. I like an inch.
2. So you don’t drill through your cabinet sides, use a marker to identify a “stop” on the drill bit–wrapping tape around the bit can move on you.
3. I decided to hang my shelves with 12″ of height (and a 1″ adjustment higher and lower). I made the marks on my stick and pre-drilled.
I started by placing the stick at the bottom back of the cabinet, and drilled all the holes at the 1ft and 2ft levels, then moved the stick to the bottom front and did the same.
4. 5. & 6. Move the stick up to finish drilling. Basically– move up the 12″ markings on the stick to overlap the [now drilled] 24″ holes. If you put the drill bit through one of the holes, and then to the corresponding shelf hole, you’ll be lined up perfectly to continue drilling!
I hope this makes sense to you—IT’s a BIG TIME SAVING TRICK!
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